If you’ve ever watched Midsomer Murders and thought, “That pub looks lovely, shame about the body count,” you might already know The Golden Ball, in Lower Assendon, just outside Henley-on-Thames. This 17th-century spot is classic English countryside stuff: whitewashed walls, flower-filled planters, and a sun-drenched beer garden with umbrella-shaded tables. Thankfully, when we dropped in, the only mystery was whether to order the pork or the lamb.
Inside, it’s just as charming, but not in a forced, horse-brass-on-every-wall kind of way. The bar area has exposed beams, pale floors, a few subtle splashes of colour, and absolutely no horseshoes or copper pots in sight. It’s clean, relaxed and welcoming — more “country cool” than “country clutter.”
The pub is now in the hands of husband-and-wife team Ben and Priya Watson, who took over in November 2022. Between them, they’ve racked up 25 years of serious hospitality experience. Priya’s worked front of house at top-notch London restaurants like Little Social and Gymkhana, while Ben’s spent time in kitchens run by Gordon Ramsay and Clare Smyth. That kind of pedigree usually means two things: one, the food will be good, and two, someone will definitely judge your wine order.
Ben’s menu is rooted in modern European cooking, but with gentle nods to Priya’s Punjabi heritage along the way. It’s not a gimmick, just a subtle way of giving the menu personality and warmth. Ingredients are as local as possible, dishes change with the seasons, and nothing feels like it’s just there to fill a gap.
That kind of attention to detail earned The Golden Ball a place in the 2024 Michelin Guide
, listed among the best pubs in Oxfordshire. But don’t let that put you off — this isn’t one of those “three peas and a smear of beetroot jus” situations. It’s proper food, done properly.
The main menu covers meat, fish and veggie options with confidence, and there are a few specials on the board to keep things interesting. Vegan options are limited, but because everything’s made on-site, you get the sense the kitchen could whip something up with a bit of notice. If you’re visiting at lunchtime, there’s also a great-value set menu — two courses for £24 or three for £29 — and it’s far from an afterthought.
Serious starters
We kicked things off with a basket of warm, freshly baked bread rolls — the kind that disappear within minutes and make you question your table manners. The waitress clocked our empty basket and brought more with a knowing smile. No judgement. We love her.
With a glass of English Bacchus from the Bolney Wine Estate in hand, we got stuck into the starters. My roasted quail breast with satay dressing and spiced swede was superb — perfectly cooked and full of contrasting and complementary flavours.
My companion’s pan-roasted Loch Duart salmon was the kind of dish that looks deceptively simple but gets better with every bite — charred just enough on the edges and soft, pink and buttery in the middle.
A silky chicken liver parfait from the set menu, served with toasted brioche and a rhubarb and apple chutney, went down a treat with our guest. Rich, sweet and gone in seconds.
Mains that hit the mark
For the main, I went all-in on comfort food and ordered a dish of local lamb two ways — roasted saddle and confit shoulder — served with miso-glazed aubergine, a feta and tomato fondue, and crispy cumin potatoes. This was spot-on: the lamb was tender and flavourful, the potatoes damn near perfect, and all paired beautifully with the aubergine and fondue.
My other half ordered the braised ox cheek from the specials menu. It arrived smothered in beef glaze, sat atop a mound of horseradish mash, and flanked by kale and maitake mushrooms. Everything played nicely together — it was rich, warming, and precisely what she’d hoped for.
Our guest went for a juicy and perfectly seasoned pork chop paired with mash, pear, kale and black pepper sauce, again from the set menu.
Nothing on the plate felt like filler. Every element had a role, and every flavour earned its place.
Sweet endings
Despite being comfortably full, we made space for dessert. It would’ve been rude not to.
The sticky toffee pudding from the set menu was rich, spongy, and swimming in caramel sauce. Absolutely spot on. No complaints, just clean plates.
One of our party picked the rhubarb macaron with vanilla custard cream filling and ginger ice cream. Visually, it was impressive, but the texture didn’t quite land. Instead of that signature soft-chewy centre, the oversized dessert was dry all the way through. The flavours were perfectly judged, though, with sharp rhubarb cutting through the sweetness.
I went for “The Golden Ball” dessert (yes, it’s named after the pub), which brought together a chocolate sphere, malt mousse, salted caramel sauce and hazelnut ice cream in a very satisfying pile of indulgence.
The Golden Ball verdict: Absolutely worth the journey
The Golden Ball is the sort of place you’d happily take your parents, a date, or a mate with good taste in food. It’s got polish, but not pretension. The food is smart and seasonal, the atmosphere relaxed, and the staff genuinely welcoming.
With starters from £14 and mains from £28, it’s not your cheapest country pub, but you’re getting proper cooking and a lovely setting for your money. If you’re swinging by for lunch, go for the set menu and thank us later.
And as for the Midsomer Murders connection? Don’t worry — the only thing getting murdered here is your waistline.
Tasted: The Golden Ball
Price: Three-course a la carte meal around £55
Web: GoldenBallHenley.co.uk
Average Joes rating: ★★★★★
He is the founder of Huff Media, publisher of Professional Pickup, Professional Van, Average Janes, Average Joes, and CALIBRE. His work focuses primarily on light commercial vehicles, pickups, and real-world vehicle use, with much of his time spent on manufacturer launches, industry events, and long-term vehicle testing.