Perched on the tenth floor of Marconi House, where the BBC’s first broadcast was made in 1922, the Asian-inspired Radio rooftop restaurant honours its legacy in name, if not in theme. Today, the building is the stylish ME London hotel, located on the southern edge of London’s bustling theatre district.
As we stepped out of the lift at Radio, we found ourselves in a bright, warm restaurant with large windows which stretched around from the terrace. It was a complete contrast to the noisy streets, and felt like we’d escaped the city.
What was surprising was that, despite the rich broadcasting-led history of the building, a brief nod to it in the menu’s introduction, and even the restaurant’s name, there is no hint of that legacy anywhere to be found. The name Radio is emblazoned on a wooden bar at one end of the restaurant, but that’s where the theme ends, which seems like an opportunity missed.
Despite the less-than-favourable winter weather, we took advantage of the views and opted for a table on the covered balcony terrace overlooking the grand Somerset House and the River Thames, with the South Bank visible through the cold and damp December gloom.
Thankfully, heaters along the length of the terrace wrapped us in a comforting warmth, making it a pleasure to linger and enjoy the view. It’s easy to imagine how the space would transform on a balmy summer evening with a golden sunset over the Thames.
Our first view of the menu
didn’t disappoint either, with delicious-sounding Asian-inspired dishes from maki rolls to duck bao and roasted king scallops. Our server let us know that dishes at Radio rooftop restaurant aren’t served in courses but are brought to the table once they are ready, encouraging a more relaxed, sharing-style approach. We chose a selection we could happily munch in whatever order they arrived.
We started with a tremendous pile of steamed edamame beans with smoked sea salt, which were cooked to perfection. They were fresh and tender, creating a fabulous contrast to the smoky salt.
The next dish to arrive was the yaki gyozas — pork dumplings — with a dipping sauce. Our only disappointment here was that there were only five of them. They were delicious, and we could happily have eaten many, many more servings.
Chicken yakitori with sesame and teriyaki sauce, and a spinach, pink grapefruit and avocado salad with maple soy dressing followed hot on the heels of the dumplings. The salad was fresh and well-presented but was a little uninspiring, with only the sharp sweetness of the grapefruit adding much depth. The chicken was delightful and flavoursome, with the moist meat working beautifully with the sweet, yet savoury, sauce.
Our final three dishes from the savoury menu were asparagus tempura with yuzu shichimi hollandaise, a Japanese rice bowl with egg yolk, pickled ginger and furikake, and what was to be my dining companion’s favourite dish, wafu crispy duck bao with cucumber and spring onion.
Each of these dishes had something to commend it. The rice bowl was excellent, and the egg yolk added a creamy richness, which we enjoyed. The asparagus was crisp yet tender, with a light batter which didn’t overwhelm the natural flavour. The dish had a beautiful hint of citrus, adding a further tang of freshness. The crispy duck bao was something to behold, with well-balanced flavours, tender meat and pillow-light bao — a triumph that should not be missed.
With all our choices from the main menu devoured, we turned to the cocktail menu for a little liquid refreshment before deciding whether there was room for dessert.
Far from predictable cocktail staples, Radio’s list is filled with exotic-sounding, Asian-inspired flavours, with twists on classics like the spicy watermelon margarita and more unusual options such as Far East Side, which combines sake, tequila and elderflower. We chose Bee’s Knees, which marries gin, La Yuzu liquor and honey with pineapple miso, lemon and yuzu bitters, and Kung Fu Pandan, which is mezcal, coconut tequila and pandan (a tropical plant), with coconut, pineapple and lime juices.
Recommended by our waitress, the Bee’s Knees was sharp and zingy with a hint of honeyed sweetness, while the Kung Fu Pandan was reminiscent of a pina colada but was less sweet and creamy, and with more bite.
The array of dishes had sated our appetite, but it seemed a shame to forgo dessert entirely, so we decided to split one, opting for the caramelised banana spring roll topped with rich chocolate. It was a very pleasant dessert, but it couldn’t quite match the boldness of the dishes before it.
Radio rooftop restaurant: The verdict
Radio rooftop restaurant has much to offer diners, from the fabulous views and helpful staff to the rich and varied menu. Even on a dull December day, the experience felt special, thanks to the cosy terrace seating and the city skyline, with London’s most iconic landmarks all around, stretching out below.
While the Instagram-worthy views are great, it’s the menu that truly steals the spotlight, the food offering exciting flavours, bold options and fresh ideas. If you’re looking for a pre-theatre nibble, a venue for a meal with friends or a romantic meal for two, Radio should be on your list — a lovely environment and a remarkable menu with the added luxury of 10th-floor London city views.
