We love London for many reasons, but mostly because it throws up stuff like this: Supperclub.tube – a full-on fine dining experience set inside a 1960s Victoria Line Tube carriage. It’s the kind of thing that sounds like a gimmick until you try it. And then you’re wondering why you’ve never had ceviche on the Central Line before.

Tucked away in the slightly unhinged setting of the Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum – think red trains, industrial leftovers and some excellent street art en route – Supperclub.tube is the brainchild of Nick Atkins, who ran a supper club out of his Islington home before relocating the project into this slightly surreal space.

supperclub tube train

Why a tube train? Honestly, I’ve no idea. There’s no obvious link between modern Latin-American cuisine and the 1960s carriage, which meant the experience wasn’t entirely cohesive. Still, the carriage has the original Tube seats, signage, and TFL vibes. But instead of being jammed up against a bloke eating crisps at 7am, you’ll be sipping prosecco and tucking into a six-course tasting menu.

The kitchen is led by Colombian chef Beatriz Maldonado Carreño – Bea to everyone on board – whose background in high-end restaurants and supper clubs across Latin America brings serious depth and skill to the menu.

You can join a communal table of twelve (pictured at the top of the page), which turns into the kind of dinner party where you leave with full bellies and a few new mates, but we settled for a private table for two.

Bea introduces the meal at the start of the evening. She doesn’t do the full guided tour of every course – thankfully – but she does set the tone, letting diners know they’re about to eat their way around the continent, with corn appearing in almost every dish as a nod to Latin America’s culinary roots.

Bea’s food is next-level. The six-course tasting menu on our visit started with a ‘corn feast’ – yellow corn cake, sweetcorn salsa, blue corn tostadas, confit baby corn, and a rich sweetcorn and rum cream. It sounds like a lot of corn (it is), but the balance of textures was spot on – crisp tostadas, smooth cream, and a soft, savoury cake.

Then came pan de bono con chorizo: chewy cassava bread with slices of Colombian-style chorizo and a sharp coriander aji. Course three, a citrusy Ecuadorian ceviche of lime-cured cod, spring onions and rocoto chilli, had us mopping the plate with bread like total converts.

The main asado course brought the wow factor: juicy rump of beef and chicken thighs, both perfectly cooked, alongside cassava chips (crispy, crunchy little miracle), chimichurri, and roasted veg.

A palate cleanser came next – passionfruit ice dome with chocolate soil – zingy, sharp, and genuinely refreshing. Dessert was a Colombian tres leches sponge with mora mousse and coulis: light, sweet, and the perfect ending to a spectacular meal.

QR codes on the table let you explore the ingredients in detail (and answer the inevitable question: “What’s this again?”), but most people on board seemed happy to simply tuck in and chat.

The whole experience is weird in the best possible way – cosy, lively, and properly delicious.

The carriage might get your attention, but it’s the food that keeps you talking.

What: Supperclub.tube
How much: From £73 per person
Average Joes rating: ★★★★☆

Phil Huff