The sea has an unwavering, powerful appeal, especially during the winter months. It has always attracted creative types, who draw inspiration from its coastal landscapes. The Isle of Thanet, located in the north-eastern corner of Kent, has been muse to artists and authors, a sanctuary for city-dwellers, and a source of happy memories for holiday-makers and day-trippers for centuries. So what is it that pulls us to it, and does it have the same appeal in the depths of winter? We headed to Kent to find out.
The Isle of Thanet comprises three main towns: Broadstairs, Ramsgate and Margate. The peninsula, once separated from the mainland by the Wantsum Channel, has long sandy beaches, quaint harbours and charming promenades that have been home to Charles Dickens, JWM Turner and, more recently, Tracey Emin. Prime ministers, actors, poets and painters have all found solace here.
As package holidays became more affordable, families started to head for foreign shores, leaving many British coastal resorts in decline, with places like Margate, Ramsgate and Broadstairs feeling the impact. The Isle of Thanet has undergone a resurgence over recent years, with the arts and creative community playing a pivotal role in stimulating much-needed investment in Kent’s coastal regions through Kent’s Creative Isle
campaign.
Margate: Where we stayed and what we did
We decided to stay in Margate during our visit, making the Fort Road Hotel our base for a few nights. This small, recently refurbished hotel is located on a slight hill overlooking the Turner Contemporary gallery, built on the site of the guesthouse where JMW Turner lived while in the town.
Our room, with a large window and cushioned window seat, offered a great view out to sea, which would undoubtedly have provided beautiful, colourful sunsets, had the January weather not had other ideas.
So what’s actually open in Margate in January? Like many seasonally driven places, a few businesses were closed for the winter, but there were still plenty of things to do in the off-season. You won’t get the full summer experience, but for a relaxed couples break, or a solo reset, filled with cosy pubs, fragrant coffee shops and a little history and culture, you’re in the right place.
Sea Scrub Sauna
If wellbeing is high on your agenda, then I can highly recommend a visit to the Sea Scrub Sauna. Located on the main beach, Sea Scrub Sauna has fabulous panoramic sea views, and what better place to take them in from than inside a hot, steamy sauna.
There are two sauna options available, costing from ÂŁ16 per session for non-members. The traditional woodfired barrel sauna, or an electric sauna with a huge window to take in the views. Everything you need is on site, including a communal changing room with storage lockers, toilets close by, and a coffee stand if you want refreshments before or after your session. I opted for the electric sauna, and after a damp and chilly morning, the heat was wonderful.
As I relaxed in the heat, the sauna assistant added an Aufguss ice ball to the coals. As the ice melted, the essential oils trapped within it were released, intensifying the heat and humidity and filling the space with a menthol fragrance that felt refreshing and enlivening.
Then it was time for the cold water plunge — not the part I’d been looking forward to. After the sauna’s heat, the searing cold of the water was a challenge. Not one I fully lived up to on my first attempt, but after another stint in the sauna and a peppermint salt scrub, I managed it on my second attempt.
Before I knew it, the session was over, and it was time to head back to the changing room. I left the beach feeling invigorated and refreshed, with my blood seeming to thrum through my veins, providing an inner calm and relaxation that made the cold plunges worthwhile.
Mullins Brasserie
There’s no shortage of places to eat in Margate, though during the winter season, some restaurants only open on limited days, usually weekends. Mullins Brasserie is open seven days a week for most of the year, and offers a menu packed with Caribbean-inspired dishes.
We wandered to the restaurant, which was just a couple of minutes’ walk from the hotel, and, being a Wednesday night in January, as you’d imagine, it was pretty quiet. Having checked out the menu, which had a good range of dishes from seafood through to burgers, we ordered the Rasta Pasta — a pasta dish with chicken, peppers and a creamy sauce — and a chicken roti — think wrap stuffed to bursting point with curried chicken, potatoes and a delicious sauce — which is served with salad and chips.
The restaurant might not have been busy, but that didn’t mean the chef was taking a relaxed stance on the food. Everything was fresh and delicious, and our waiter was attentive but remained at a tactful distance, staying just in sight when we needed anything but not lingering, so we didn’t feel self-conscious.
The restaurant was a pleasant place to spend a few hours, chatting, sipping our drinks and enjoying the cuisine. It did lack atmosphere, but I can imagine that a Wednesday night in August would be a vastly different story.
The portion sizes were generous for the prices, with the pasta dish the most expensive, at £17. The dessert menu had some fabulous-sounding choices, with ginger sponge with cinnamon and ginger ice cream sounding particularly appealing, but we resisted temptation. This time, at least. Next time, ginger sponge, I’m coming for you.
Getting creative in Ramsgate: Coco Barclay’s leather workshop
With such a creative history, it was impossible to come to the Isle of Thanet without getting involved in a workshop. Caroline and Tuk Peppas are both experienced leather workers who have been designing and making beautiful items since the 1980s. From bags and belts to wallets and jewellery, their shop, Coco Barclay, just a few minutes’ walk from Ramsgate harbour, is full of colourful examples of their work.
The leather workshop is held in the back of the shop, where the married couple spend their days designing and making the items they sell in person, online, and at exhibitions throughout the year. The space is surrounded by rolls of leather and well-loved tools, which give the workshop a wonderfully intimate feel. It wasn’t in an overly prepared area, but in the heart of the operation, which was relaxed and comfortable.
With absolutely no leatherworking experience, we weren’t sure what to expect, but Caroline and Tuk were warm and welcoming and provided all the help and advice we needed to create our chosen pieces.
An hour and a half later, we had completed a folded card wallet, a tassel keyring, and a small boat keyring. We’d cut, punched, trimmed, burnished, riveted and glued, and were both very pleased with our efforts.
The leather workshop was an excellent experience that, under great tutelage, gave us insight into the world of leatherworking, and at £25 per person, it’s a brilliant way to try your hand at it.
Going underground: Ramsgate Tunnels
The rain had set in, so we decided the best way to escape it was to head into Ramsgate Tunnels for a guided tour of the UK’s largest network of civilian wartime tunnels. During the winter months, from 1st November until 31st March, tours run at 10am, midday, and 2pm, Tuesday to Sunday, guided by knowledgeable volunteers.
The tours give a brief history of the creation of the tunnels during the Second World War, a move prompted by the heavy bombing the town had endured in the First World War. The tunnels extend for just over three miles beneath the town, and the tour covers only a small portion of them.Â
The fascinating history of the tunnels and stories of those who used them, and in some cases lived in them after their own homes were destroyed, were relayed by tour guides as we passed into different parts of the tunnels, with the cool darkness around us giving just a little impression of what it must have like down there during an air raid.
One of the most fascinating parts was the section covered in chalked graffiti, with the earliest date we saw being 1963. The guide explained that when the tunnels were closed off, teenagers began to find their way in and would hang out there. A favoured game was apparently to see how far they could cycle in the pitch-dark through without crashing. Clearly, someone lost a bet, as a crumpled bike left decaying in an alcove shows.
If you’re a social history fan, you’ll love the experience, but for anyone suffering from claustrophobia, it’s probably one to avoid.
What the Dickens is in Broadstairs?
A little further around the coast from Ramsgate is Broadstairs. In many ways, it’s much like every other coastal town in Kent, with a broad sandy beach flanked by Edwardian houses, leading to narrow, quaint streets. What sets it apart is the literary connection.
Charles Dickens first visited Broadstairs in 1837 and, for the next two decades, would spend his summers living in a house overlooking the sea, writing and finding inspiration among the town’s people.
Around the town, you’ll find connections to the author, not least of which is Dickens House Museum. Sadly, this is one of the attractions that isn’t open during the winter season, so having walked up to Dickens’ summer home — Bleak House, formerly known as Fort House — to take in the views, we headed for a more 20th-century seaside staple, the arcade.
The flashing lights and music have a wonderfully nostalgic quality, taking me back to childhood visits with my grandparents and summer holidays with my own children. With 2p’s in hand, we headed to the penny push machines and, with smiles plastered on our faces, looked for the machine that looked ripe for rewarding us with the clatter of falling coins.
We had a lot of fun feeding the machines, but the return, as it often is, was a little lacking. Still, it’s not about the winning. Thankfully.
The verdict: The Isle of Thanet in winter
If you’re thinking about heading to a coastal resort in the UK in winter, it’s unlikely you’re going for the company. From November until Easter, the Isle of Thanet isn’t a thriving hub of activity, but that is one of the things we enjoyed.
When the weather is good, there are beautiful coastal and clifftop walks to explore, as well as beaches and bays to roam. If the weather isn’t at its best, the creative nature of the region can be explored, too. Throughout the three towns, there are small galleries displaying and selling works by local artists, as well as galleries such as Turner Contemporary, which house international works and exhibitions on a larger scale.
You can take part in hands-on experiences, with classes and workshops in various arts and crafts, either individually or as part of a group. These activities run throughout the year and make the perfect distraction from winter weather.
The Isle of Thanet is more than simply a seaside destination. It’s a destination that cares for your soul and inspires creativity. Come winter rain, hail or shine, there’s always something to raise a smile or spark an interest, and those rolling waves and long, sandy beaches to soothe the body and mind. The perfect antidote to the busy routines of modern life.
