London, like cities the world over, is a place of constant evolution. As the population and its needs change, so do the surroundings. One example is Spitalfields Market. We headed to London E1 to explore and see how the area has changed and developed for the 21st-century visitor.

Spitalfields Market was part of East End life for generations, trading fruit and vegetables daily. There had been a market on the site for over 350 years, until the inevitable day in 1991 when it outgrew its location. Thankfully, that wasn’t the end of the story. A regeneration program brought a new lease of life to the historic area, and in 2005, the Spitalfields Market that we see today opened to the public.

What’s at Spitalfields Market? 

Within the covered area that is Spitalfields Market (not to be confused with New Spitalfields Market, which is in Leyton and still trades in fruit and veg), you’ll find a host of independent market traders offering everything from unique art, modern and retro fashion, to jewellery, knick-knacks and crafts. The stalls are laid out in a grid format within the market, and you can spend several hours wandering from stall to stall. And, thanks to the restored Victorian roof, you can visit and browse whatever the weather. 

While the roots of the place might be in the market stall, modern retailers are part of the reinvented Spitalfields, too. Around the edges of the market are fashion brands like P&Co and Nobody’s Child, as well as more retro stores such as American Vintage. 

Alongside the fashion, there’s Benefit Cosmetics and Malin+Goetz, Townhouse Nail Salon and even an Amazon Salon (yes, we were a little surprised, too) if you fancy a bit of a restyle. 

What about food and drink? 

There are myriad options inside the covered market for grabbing a coffee or cold drink, or taking a well-earned break and enjoying a bite to eat. From traditional pubs to doughnuts and dessert stalls, you will be spoiled for choice, but head outside to Lamb Street and you’ll find some fantastic street food options that are well worth checking out. So we did just that. 

The mouthwatering smell of the barbecuing meat at Smoko Loko was just too inviting, so we had to drop in. The menu was full of great-sounding options, and eventually we plumped for the large mixed grill box at £18.50. The box meals offer excellent value for money and provide a nice variety of flavours and textures. The large boxed meal included three types of meat, three sides and two sauces. It was an impressive amount of food, and everything was absolutely delicious. The meats were all beautifully cooked and well-flavoured, but the standout was the cassava fries dipped in chimichurri sauce. Wonderful. 

Having demolished that between us, we headed a little further down Lamb Street, past fish and chips, tacos and Thai food. As I’m a sucker for a bit of Turkish cuisine, it was impossible to resist Ebby’s Kitchen. With a chicken shish rice box, served with hummus and salad, and a side of halloumi fries ordered, we sat outside and watched the world go by as our order was prepared. Just a few minutes later, we were tucking in. 

The rice layer was substantial and could have had more flavour, but the meat, salad and hummus combination was very tasty. The highlight for me was the halloumi fries, which hit the spot beautifully. Having said that, at £9.50 for a moderately sized portion, they didn’t give the same value for money as the rice box at just £12.

One thing is for sure: you won’t leave Lamb Street hungry, no matter which of the diverse options you choose. 

What else is in the area?

Head out of Spitalfields Market and you’ll find plenty more interesting things to see and do. Brick Lane, with its sprawling underground vintage market, is just a few minutes’ walk away. This cavern is crammed full of boutiques selling fashion, jewellery and other memorabilia from the 1920s through to the 1990s. 

Exit at the right place and you’ll see Banksy’s Pink Car sitting atop a wall, albeit now looking a little sorry for itself, having (somewhat ironically, given Banksy’s own graffiti style) been vandalised. 

There is more street art to see around Spitalfields, as a scattered herd of 21 bronze elephants — one matriarch and 20 babies — installed by the Sheldrike Wildlife Trust. This “Herd of Hope” was created by artists Gillie and Marc to raise awareness for the plight of Africa’s endangered elephants, as well as funds for the wildlife trust. The beautiful sculptures can be seen walking, sitting and playing around pedestrian areas, each with a plaque telling its individual story.

The art theme continues with the Van Gogh Experience. Located just opposite Spitalfields Market, this immersive 360-degree digital art exhibition lets you see some of the artist’s best-known works in a new and fascinating way.

An evening at Spitalfields

Having explored not only Spitalfields, but also a little of the surrounding area, we were all shopped out as the traders began to pack up for the day. One of the great things about Spitalfields is that it doesn’t grind to a halt once the market stalls close. The atmosphere becomes a little more buzzing as Spitalfields turns its attention from trading to socialising.

Players Social is a great place to kick back and relax for a few hours, enjoy a game of shuffleboard, interactive darts or foosball, and have a few drinks with friends. For me, there was only one star attraction — the shuffleboard tables.

If shuffleboard isn’t something you’ve tried yet, I can highly recommend it. Think mini table-top curling, but without ice. Or brushes. It’s a game that will bring out your competitive side, and, if you’re anything like us, will have you mentally measuring up to see if a 6.7-metre-long table will fit anywhere in your house…

Whether you get competitive or just sit back and relax, it’s a great venue with plenty of space and a great atmosphere. And the cocktails go down easily, too.

Spitalfields Market: The verdict

London is full of interesting nooks and crannies, and Spitalfields is one that is well worth exploring. Granted, you do need to have at least a passing interest in shopping, as that does make up a large part of its identity, but with some fabulous independent traders and just a handful of chain retailers, Spitalfields has a unique character.

With so much to do and see in one area, it was easy to lose ourselves for a day, without realising it. There is something different around each corner, from relaxed squares full of shaded seating for a chilled lunch stop, to historic churches and ancient ruins; it’s a place full of surprises. The transformation from a trader’s market to a tourist mecca is impressive. With evolution now part of its DNA, Spitalfields undoubtedly has a bright future ahead.

Sam Huff