If you’re heading to Hampshire’s Test Valley this summer and are looking for a place to stay for a night or two — or just have a meal — then The Duke on The Test near Romsey is just the ticket.
There is little more delightful than a country pub on a sunny evening, and having made The Duke on The Test our home for a couple of nights while we tried our hand at flyfishing a few miles up the road, we can safely say this is no exception.
The pub has a long history of hospitality, serving the community of Romsey and passing travellers since the early 16th century. While the original offering may have changed a little over the last 500 years or so, the welcome remains warm, and the pub is incredibly charming.
A recent renovation and extension project refreshed the venue and added 12 rooms to the pub, including twin, family, and Super King options, so it’s also more accommodating.
The Accommodation
Our room was on the ground floor, which meant we had a little patio area with a table and chairs surrounded by mid-height hedging to provide some privacy. We may have hoped for a view over the River Test, but that’s 60 metres behind the building, so we got the car park instead. Don’t let that put you off, though, as guests get their own car park away from the pub-goers’ parking.
Though not overly spacious, the room was designed to provide a comfortable and uncluttered stay with plenty of character. The bed was large and inviting, taking up most of the floor space, with bedside tables and lamps on each side. While plug sockets were easy to access on one side of the bed, on the other side, the socket was hidden behind the bedside table, making it a little more tricky to reach should it be needed overnight. USB charging sockets are built into the sockets by the desk.
Despite the petite proportions, the proprietors have tried to provide everything you might need during your stay. There is an open shelving-cum-wardrobe unit, which gives a place to hang your clothes and has enough space to stash your bag. However, in an effort to provide everything, the shelves that would have been useful for your belongings are taken up with a safe and tea and coffee-making facilities.
At the foot of the bed was a desk big enough to get your laptop out and do some work if needed. There was a phone on the desk, which isn’t worthy of mention in itself, other than the fact that it had an LED screen that seemed capable of lighting the entire room once it got dark. Having woken during the night and then been unable to get back to sleep, I had to cover the screen — a better option than hurling it across the car park, which at 2 am had been my first thought.
Despite some criticism, the room was delightful. The blend of dark woods, light paint, rustic fixtures and a double door to the patio that let light flood in gave it a warm, cosy and somewhat luxurious vibe.
The room had a modern en-suite with a shower over the bath, sink, and toilet. A large, half-height mirror is slightly set back behind the sink, creating a very handy shelf for all your toiletries.
Having settled into our room and freshened up, we headed to the pub for a drink or two before dinner. The sun was shining, and the patio area had an understated yet buzzy atmosphere as locals and visitors enjoyed the warm early evening in the pleasant surroundings.
The Food
Having soaked up some rays, the ambience and a chilled cider or two, we headed inside to eat in the bar area. The vibrant atmosphere we experienced outside continued inside, too, as the place was busy with diners enjoying what looked to be some great dishes.
We pored over the menu and were spoilt for choice. One of the points of pride at The Duke on The Test is that the food is sourced as locally as possible. It showcases the best produce Hampshire has to offer, prepared and cooked by the on-site chef, which didn’t make the choice any easier.
Eventually, I decided on the crispy hen’s egg with English asparagus, peas, pickles, shimeji mushrooms, and shallots. My companion opted for the tempura of seasonal vegetables with a sweet chilli and sesame sauce, and peanut crumb. Both dishes were delightfully fresh and spectacularly tasty. The quality of the ingredients, presumably locally sourced, was evident, as was the care with which they had been used.
The main courses offered an equally enticing selection, and the handful of ‘specials’ made the choice even more difficult. My companion opted for a dish from the main menu: pork braciole stuffed with ventricina and scamorza, served with dauphinoise potatoes, marinated roasted vegetables, and a red wine jus.
I decided to try one from the specials list — the pork and chorizo burger with Sriracha mayonnaise, fries and coleslaw. It might sound somewhat less adventurous than the pork braciole, but it was flavoursome and filling. The brioche bun was a slight letdown, though, as it couldn’t cope with the filling and disintegrated early, leaving me to eat much of it with a knife and fork. To all restrauters, can we please stop putting burgers in brioche rolls now? Thank you.
The pork braciole was delightful; the meat was tender, and the flavours worked well together, creating an excellent dish.
After washing down the first two courses with a bottle of Flora and Fauna Blanc, we browsed the dessert menu. I ordered the sumptuous-sounding hazelnut pie with honeycomb ice cream and chocolate puree, and my companion chose the chocolate and raspberry slice with raspberry sorbet.
The first two courses had hit the spot perfectly, so I anticipated the same from the dessert, but sadly, I was disappointed. Despite the assurance that the food was freshly prepared, my hazelnut pie had all the hallmarks of having been reheated in the microwave; it was actually too hot to eat, the pastry case was pale, and it had a soggy bottom, making the pie rather underwhelming, to say the least.
Thankfully, my companion had made a much better dessert selection — chocolate and raspberry slice with raspberry sorbet — enjoying the freshness of the raspberries, which is always a winning combination with chocolate.
As we were staying overnight, we had breakfast at The Duke. The menu was just as well-rounded as the dinner menu, with choices from continental to full English and everything in between. All the ingredients were excellent quality and well-cooked, making for an incredibly delicious breakfast experience. My favourite breakfast dish was the healthy homemade gluten-free granola with yoghurt and fresh berries. Everything about it was fresh and tasty, and I can honestly say I have never had such fabulous yoghurt!
The Duke on The Test: The Verdict
Not everything about our stay was perfect, but it came pretty close. Ultra-illumination issues aside, the accommodation was comfortable and well-appointed, and the food was almost all excellent.
The decor throughout is charming and has some wonderfully quirky elements, but gives a lovely nod not only to the age and heritage of the original coaching inn but also to the Test Valley and the River Test, which flows a little way behind the pub.
One of the best features of The Duke on The Test is the staff who take care of you during your visit. Everybody we encountered was warm, friendly, and extremely helpful. Any issues—such as there not being towels in the room when we checked in—were corrected quickly and easily with no fuss at all, and it was a pleasure to interact with them over breakfast, dinner, and drinks.
We had a wonderfully relaxed stay in a delightful environment, which was exactly what we needed after our day of exploring the Test Valley, and exactly what you expect from a country pub in a glorious location.
Hotel Review: The Duke on The Test
Web: thedukeonthetest.co.uk
How Much: Rooms from £89, Dinner around £35
Average Joes Rating: ★★★★☆
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