Sri Lanka is a destination that conjures images of golden sands and honeymooners walking hand in hand at the edge of the Indian Ocean. It has that in spades, of course, but this pint-sized island nation has so much more to offer visitors
. From beautiful beaches to jungle retreats, there is something for everyone to enjoy.
But before you grab your suitcase and apply for your tourist visa, here are a handful of helpful things to know.
The Sri Lankan Currency
Sri Lanka uses the Sri Lankan rupee, which is a closed currency, which means you won’t be able to buy any before you arrive in the country. The good news is that there are plenty of currency exchange booths in the airport that don’t charge commission. Most exchange rates are within a whisker of each other as well, so unless you intend to exchange a lot of cash, don’t stress about comparing the numbers.
Alternatively, there are plenty of ATMs available that charge around a 5% fee, while most larger hotels can exchange cash, but tend to charge around 10%. Whether you withdraw cash or exchange it in person, the rates and commissions will get you a similar deal, so go with the most convenient option.
You’ll generally be fine paying for things by card, but check rates and fees with your card provider before you go. If you’re heading out of the larger towns and cities and away from resort areas, it’s best to have a little cash on you, as small shops and stalls in rural areas are less likely to have card payment facilities. A little respectful haggling with the locals is always easier with cash, too.
The Weather and How To Survive It
The weather in Sri Lanka is one of its selling points — no matter what time of year you visit, temperatures hit an average of around 27°C, with lows in the early 20s and highs hitting the mid-30s.
That’s not to say you’re guaranteed clear skies and endless sunshine, though — monsoon season brings wet and unsettled conditions to the south and southwest between May and September and the east of the country between November and March.
The peak holiday season is December to April, as it offers the most settled conditions for the south and western parts of the country, where the majority of the country’s tourist industry is centred. But along with that comes the humidity.
If you’re not a fan of a high-humidity environment, then Sri Lanka might not be your ideal destination. We visited in early April and faced occasional oppressive humidity, particularly in the cities and jungle regions. While most hotels have air conditioning, it often doesn’t extend past the bedrooms, so dining can be a rather sweaty experience.
Heading into tea country, even in peak season, can provide some respite from the heat. Located at an altitude of around 2,000 metres above sea level, temperatures are much more pleasant, and the scenery is beautiful to boot.
Even there, a hat with a brim is a good idea, not only to protect your head and neck but also to give your eyes a break from the constant glare. Ensure you always carry a bottle of water — there’s always somebody around ready to sell you some — as dehydration and sunstroke are extremely unpleasant and will put a dampener on your hard-earned sunshine break. And don’t forget the sunscreen.
The Sri Lankan Wildlife
You’ll see plenty of wildlife in Sri Lanka of all shapes and sizes, some of which you might get up close and personal with, whether you like it or not.
Elephants can be seen wandering at the side of the road, which is a great photo opportunity, but it’s best not to approach too closely; they’re wild animals and unpredictable. Monkeys are plentiful and have learned that humans are easy pickings for food, and will quite happily try to intimidate you to get it. The best advice is not to feed them, intentionally at least, and keep hold of your belongings as they can be opportunistic thieves. Monkeys are often found roaming hotel grounds as well, so if you hang anything on a balcony, attach it firmly so they can’t make off with your items.
Street dogs are everywhere in Sri Lanka, with a rather vague estimate of numbers between one and three million across the country. Our guide told us that the sheer number of street dogs is partly down to the Buddhist philosophy of doing no harm to humans or animals. That means they’re not neutered or culled, and leftover food is often put out to nourish the dogs, cutting waste and ensuring no animal is left hungry.
While the dogs are generally friendly and placid, take care if you are out and about after dark or in the early hours of the morning, as natural pack instincts kick in and they can be more erratic. They’re mostly safe, but if you are bitten, get medical attention immediately as a precaution.
You’ll encounter plenty of smaller wildlife on the island, from mosquitoes to frogs. None of them are too troublesome, but the one that might set you twitching is the leech. If you intend to go hiking in the mountains, you could be unlucky enough to pick up a sticky friend or two when walking in grassy or jungle areas. Keep your lower legs covered with knee-length socks or lightweight trousers, and give yourself a liberal spray of Deet or similar to help deter the little suckers.
Food and Drink in Sri Lanka
There is plenty of great food to be found in Sri Lanka, but if you aren’t a curry fan, proceed with caution. The locals love a hit of spicy goodness, and if you ask, “Is it spicy?” then remember that it all comes down to personal taste and the flavours you’re used to eating. Something a Sri Lankan native might find a little bland could still knock your socks off if you’re a chicken korma kind of person.
In Sri Lankan cooking, they don’t believe in deboning anything before it goes into the pot, so be careful chomping down on things, as you could encounter the odd tooth-cracking morsel — that’s where the tradition of eating with your hands comes in useful to track down those rogue bones!
Most quality hotels operate a buffet system for lunch and dinner, giving the perfect opportunity to try a few different Sri Lankan foods, but with the backup of something a little more Western if you find nothing takes your fancy.
One thing you simply must try are Sri Lankan bananas — they are about half the size of a banana you’ll usually find in the UK, but they are packed with the most wonderful, sweet flavour. You’ll never look at a supermarket banana the same way again.
Of course, Sri Lanka is a country with its roots deeply embedded in the tea industry. Ceylon Supreme tea is commonly found in hotels and cafes and makes a spectacular cuppa, and is often made using hot milk or sometimes condensed milk, but you can usually request cold milk to keep it British. If you are heading into tea country, visit a tea estate and factory and try some straight from the source — if you love a good cup of tea, you’ll never want to leave.
Coffee, however, is not one of the country’s strengths. Hotel coffee can be a hit-and-miss affair, so if you’re a coffee aficionado, you might need to hunt down your caffeine fix elsewhere. Sri Lanka’s largest coffee chain, Barista, only has 34 branches across the country, so don’t expect a coffee shop on every corner.
Sri Lanka Hotels
Hotel prices in Sri Lanka aren’t overwhelmingly expensive, with rooms starting from as little as £13 per night in the Slave Island neighbourhood of Colombo and up to around £300 per night for a room in the ITC Ratnapida, a Luxury Collection Hotel by Marriott Bonvoy. Similar prices are reflected across the country, where rooms tend to be affordable with only the most well-frequented hot spots attracting higher prices.
Don’t be too swayed by the star ratings, as they reflect the amenities available rather than the levels of luxury or quality. You may find a five-star resort that’s rather rough around the edges, while a one-star property might be the most wonderfully welcoming place to stay, so check the reviews online before you book.
No matter what accommodation you book, the warm and generous welcome of the Sri Lankan people will make it worthwhile. You’ll always be greeted with kindness and a smile, and while service isn’t always prompt, things will get sorted eventually.
Relax, go with the flow, and embrace the less regimented way of life. You’ll leave feeling calm and refreshed and wanting to come back for more.
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