Scotland — the land of whisky, wild scenery and windswept isles. Whether you’re a whisky newcomer or a long-term lover of the spirit, there is nothing quite like a trip to a working distillery. With around 150 Scottish malt and grain distilleries, of which 70 open their doors to the public, you’d be hard pressed not to stumble across one. But there is one distillery that should be on the “must-visit” list of any Scotch whisky fan — Jura Distillery on the tiny island of Jura.
When George Orwell visited the island in the late 1940s, he was looking for a location to write his novel 1984, and described the place as “un-get-atable”. He wasn’t wrong. Eighty years later, Jura can still only be accessed by boat, with visitors taking either a short hop across from the Isle of Islay, or a passenger ferry or private charter from Tayvallich on the western coast of mainland Scotland.
During my recent visit, I took the latter option, enjoying the 50-minute trip down the length of Loch Sween and across to the beautiful island of Jura, past stunning scenery, basking seals and picture-perfect lighthouses.
On the approach to Jura, the first thing that immediately draws the eye is the distillery. Its prominent position on the shoreline reflects its importance to the island and the 200 or so islanders. Small Isles Distillery, as it was known when it first opened in 1810, was a vital part of the island’s economy for decades, until in 1913 the final barrel of whisky left the island and the distillery fell silent. As a result, the population dwindled; with very few employment opportunities, the islanders had no choice but to head to the mainland.
In the early 1960s, local landowners Tony Riley-Smith and Robin Fletcher set about reviving the economy by bringing whisky production back to the island. Finally, on April 26th 1963, the fully refurbished Jura Distillery reopened its doors and it’s been in full flight ever since.
Whisky, Jura style
With Jura being within spitting distance of Islay, known for its peated whiskies, you could be forgiven for expecting Jura whisky to follow a similar path. Instead, as Graham Geddes, the distillery manager, explained as I began my tour of the distillery
, Jura uses unpeated barley which creates a much lighter whisky, more akin to the highland Speyside style, leading to the house style, which is “fruity and aromatic, with a touch of coastal influence.”
Geddes went on to explain that there has been less demand for peated whisky in recent years, and while Jura has a number of barrels in its reserves, there are no plans to release them as an expression. Instead, they’re used to add a little seasoning, which he describes as “a smokey kiss,” when a blend calls for it.
The distillery tour
The first stop on my tour of the distillery was the mash tun, where I arrived just as the process was about to begin. The hot water and malted barley were added to the huge metal mashing vat, where they were mixed to initiate the release of fermentable sugars from the grains. Watching the mixing blades spinning and tossing the foaming mixture was hypnotic, but it was time to move on.
Next stop was the washbacks, or fermentation tanks, where yeast is added to the mash and the mixture left to ferment. Jura whisky is usually in the washbacks for around 60 hours, with one notable exception. Every September, the island hosts a music festival, and the distillery closes, allowing the entire island to come together and enjoy the festivities. While the team are away, the fermenting spirit stays in the tank for around 130 hours — a future music festival special release, perhaps? Geddes’ eyes twinkle at the prospect.
As I made my way into the still room, it was a sight to behold. Four enormous copper stills stood before me, each standing 28 feet tall. These stills, some of the largest in an island distillery, are what give Jura whisky its fruity character. Each time the heated spirit vapours rise up the still and condense against the side of the copper chimney, the liquor gains a little more flavour and character, and with such a height to climb and fall, the opportunity to enhance the spirit is plentiful.
The tasting session
Having seen how and where the spirit was produced, it was finally time to taste a few drams. I headed into the warehouse, the racks filled with barrels from floor to ceiling. Jura’s Master Blender, Joe Ricketts, selected a few expressions, each offering a distinct characteristic that showcases the versatility of the spirit.
The first was a non-age-statement whisky, a blend of spirits aged from eight to 19 years. It’s still a work in progress, but it will be the basis for a future release in the Perspectives collection. Aged in first and second-fill bourbon casks, as well as virgin oak, there was a delightful blend of freshness and rich complexity.
The following two drams were the component parts of the yet-to-be-released Perspective No. 02. The first, the 2010 bourbon component, was aged in first, second, and third-fill bourbon casks for approximately 16 months. The second, the Amontillado component, had been aged in Amontillado butts which, Ricketts explained, accentuates the aromatic element, adding support to the spirit without overwhelming the flavour.
Next came my particular favourite, a 1990 refill hogshead (an American white oak barrel, previously used for bourbon, in case you were wondering), which was recently released as a distillery exclusive. Fully matured on the island, it represents what Geddes called a “pure expression of Jura”. When asked how this single, simple cask could create such complexity, the Master Blender smiled, replying, “Time and care — 20 years plus turns Jura’s spirit into something spectacular.”
The penultimate whisky in the lineup was initially placed in bourbon casks in 2001, before being transferred to Sauternes barrique in 2018 for a second maturation. Sauternes is a sweet white wine from the Bordeaux region, the casks from which are much sought after. And quite rightly so — the rich notes of peaches and apricots shone through, with floral hints adding to the distinctive flavour.
The final whisky, the Fèis Ìle 2025 release, was developed for this year’s Islay Festival of Malt and Music. Matured in oloroso sherry casks, it’s a departure from the usual house style of Jura. Full of bold flavours of plum and dark fruits, with sweet tobacco and fruit blossom, it had a more syrupy texture and a deeper red hue, the perfect mark of its robust character.
Jura, the island
There is something utterly captivating about the Island of Jura. Its remote location and feeling of disconnection from the mainland make it feel special, serene and well worth the trip. With just one pub, one hotel and one main road, it seems like an island lost in time.
Yet with the distillery at its heart, Jura is embracing its place on the whisky tourism map. The team at Jura is determined to make whisky more accessible to a new generation, but that doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be an adventure. Where else can you step off a boat, taste great whisky, then settle back at sunset and watch wild deer roam the streets? Jura is more than just whisky. It’s a reminder that the best experiences require a little effort — and are all the more rewarding for it. Just don’t forget the midge spray…
