Airports can be hateful places. I love to travel, but the thought of having to do battle with a crowded terminal and countless queues is enough to put me off. The time wasted on uncomfortable seats, stressing about passport and border controls, and even trying to get an affordable coffee (let alone a satisfying meal) can take the joy out of it. There has to be a better way. And there is. On my recent journey to the Netherlands, I found an alternative that changed my perspective: the Stena Line overnight ferry from Harwich to Rotterdam
at the Hook of Holland.
When I heard ‘Stena Line’, the first thought that crossed my mind was the cross-channel ferry journeys I’d taken from Dover. Don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against those crossings, but they rarely ooze comfort and charm. From those previous experiences, the thought of spending multiple hours on the Stena Line overnight ferry didn’t fill me with glee.
But I was wrong. Stena Line’s super ferries are a sizable step up. I was travelling on Stena Britannica, a ship more akin to a small cruise liner than a cross-channel ferry. Stena Britannica and her sister ship, Stena Hollandica, were both fully refurbished in 2024. Darker, more enclosed areas have been opened out, creating a bright, spacious feel, as well as cosy social areas and vibrant, family-friendly spaces.
From the moment I stepped onboard — which was way easier than getting through an airport — I felt at ease, with friendly, polite staff greeting guests and helping with directions and queries.
As I was taking the Stena overnight sailing, I was required to book a cabin on the ferry, so I headed there first to check out my room for the night. My comfort class cabin was petite but had everything I could possibly need. The beds were comfortable, and the en-suite bathroom was well-equipped with a full-sized shower, sink and toilet.
There was space for luggage next to the desk area, which also held the tea and coffee-making facilities, as well as a few snacks. The complimentary mini-bar had a handful of soft drinks and a couple of cans of beer and red and white wine — perfect for a relaxed drink as you freshen up before heading down for dinner.
There are several refreshment options onboard Stena Britannica, depending on whether you are looking for a full meal or snacks and drinks. The restaurant menu isn’t extensive, but options include a burger, curry, and Swedish meatballs. Veggie and vegan options are also available.
For drinks and snacks, head to the Social Cafe Bar or the Coffee House, or there’s a bar onboard, too, for a glass of wine, a beer, or a cocktail.
I had a Stena Premium Lounge pass, which is included with some ticket purchases or can be added for an extra fee, so after a quick change, I headed there to see what it had to offer.
Stena Premium Lounge provides guests with a slightly more comfortable setting to while away the hours, with waiter service and complimentary snacks and drinks, as well as dinner options if you’re looking for a full meal. You’re greeted, for the evening sailing at least, with a chilled glass of prosecco and a welcoming smile and invited to make yourself comfortable.
After a very tasty meal of Swedish meatballs with mashed potatoes, lingonberries and a cream sauce and a glass or two of wine, I retired to my cabin to be gently rocked to sleep by the motion of the waves.
There’s no need to worry about changing time zones and setting alarm clocks, as the morning is heralded rather too chirpily by a joyful Bobby McFerrin, as “Don’t Worry, Be Happy” is played across the ship’s PA system, followed by an announcement of our arrival in the Hook of Holland — I suppose there are worse ways to be woken up.
Refreshed from a night of comfortable sleep, I departed the Stena Britannica, ready to embrace the delights of Rotterdam. If you consider the costs of the crossing in isolation, it is more pricey than a budget airline, but if you throw in the night of accommodation and food and drink, it all seems much more reasonable.
Then, of course, there is the personal cost of a more leisurely crossing, and that’s invaluable. Sometimes, the journey itself can be as enjoyable as the destination.
